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Tri-X 400

Hi there,

Superdope stuff your work! Thanks a gazilllion for your efforts and sharing!

I have a question: What exactly does «in progress» mean in case of the Kodak Tri-X 400? Of course I understand the expression «in progress» in general ;-)…

When will it be finished or what exactly is missing to call it done?

I have a project where I want to emulate the look of the photog Platon (platonphoto). He’s using the Tri-X 400 and I would like to achieve the look in-camera (shooting JPEG).

So that’s why I am wondering, when the Tri-X 400 will be done/finished.

Maybe you have some tips on adjusting the PP to get closest to the look. I am particularly interested in the grain of Platon’s images and of course the contrast. I know that he’s shooting analog and scans the images with a drum scanner and then does some dod and burn. I want to achieve an almost identic look starting with the Sony PP Tri-X 400 as my film and take it as a baseline.

I hope I expressed myself clear enough as English isn’t my mother’s tongue.😉😅☺️

Thanks for your feedback.🙏🏼

3 answers0 replies

3 Comments

Patrick Mathys

May 22, 2023

Wow, man. Thanks for responding so thoroughly and fast.

Yeah, analyze his images and let me know. If I don’t hear back soon, I maybe will ask ya’ for the standings…😉😅😂

Veres Deni Alex

May 23, 2023

Replying to

Checked a couple of his images.

I think the Tri-X 1600 would be a better starting point since it offers a lot more contrast that the 400 film simulation, which is low contrast and muddy, but I also have very little experience with Studio Flash Photography, so you will have to see for yourself how that works in the studio.

As a simple guide to further refine the recipe, I can recommend some simple steps.

Do your setup, bring a model to pose for you as you do these edits.

I guess you have, or you are in the process of studying his style of lighting and composition.

Set your model, Set your camera to tethering & take a first shot.

Check on your computer and analize the blacks, the midtones and the highlights

I reckon to come closer to his style, you might need to lower the black level by quite a bit and maybe lift the Black gamma a little, maybe change it to Middle +3 or so.

If you want to have soft but blown out highlights then set the Knee value between 75-82.5% and set the slope to +3 or +5.

Remember the Black Level controls the black point in the scene, where the shadows start clipping. Lifting it you start fading the blacks, decreasing it you start clipping black sooner.

Black Gamma Controls the shadows, you have a Wide, Middle or Narrow range and you can decrease or increase the shadows between -7 or +7

Knee controls the highlight area, by controlling this, you can give your images a soft rolloff retaining some of the details in the highlights or harsh burned out highlights.

hope this guide helps

Veres Deni Alex

May 22, 2023

In progress can mean it's freshly posted and requires some work, or it's still in development stage and sudden changes might appear. Sometimes after publishing I still keep it in Development Mode for weeks so I come back to it with fresh eyes and make some improvements in case I feel it needs some.

The Kodak Tri-x 400 is basically ready, There are no modifications I would like to bring to them, so you can use it without hesitation.

the Tri-x 1600 will be punchier and the 400 version will be soft and muddy.

I am still not sure how to respond the last question about grain, it also depends on the camera model.

If you check this blog post I made about the Kodak Tri-X 1600, you will also see the kind of grain I got in my images with the RX100 VI

"If you want something subtle, you can easily control that by lowering the ISO. Take a shot and zoom in the image to check the level of grain you have. Then Lower or Increase the ISO to your personal liking. Don't forget to Turn Off the Noise Reduction in the Photo Menu.

This was shot on the RX100 VI at ISO 1600, 1/6500 SS, f3.5.

The camera has a 1inch sensor, for an APS-C sensor this would be equivalent to maybe 3200-12800 ISO, and on a fullframe sensor it would be between 12800-25600."

The RX100 is super noisy, even daytime at ISO 600-800 is has some slight grain to it, fullframe camera might need higher iso's, so you need to experiment.

One more thing to note, turn off noise reduction completely, otherwise you won't get the same kind of grain you'd expect.

Kodak Tri-X 400 Sony Film Simulation Recipe | Freshly Baked Series

Also if you play with the Detail Settings further, you might get different types of grain patterns

I will analyze his images and might come back with a more documented answer regarding how to push the Kodak Tri-X Film simulation to get the same style as him.

Hope this helps! :D

Tri-X 400

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